Complete Care Guide
Bearded dragons are one of the most rewarding reptiles you can own, but only when their basic needs are met consistently. This guide walks through everything a new or experienced owner needs to know, from setting up the right enclosure to spotting early signs of illness, so your dragon can live a long and healthy life.
Getting Started
A properly sized and set up enclosure is the foundation of good bearded dragon care. Get this right early and most other care decisions become much easier.
Hatchlings can start in a smaller tank around 20 gallons, but they grow quickly and should not stay there long. A single adult bearded dragon needs at least a 40 gallon breeder tank, with 75 to 120 gallons giving noticeably more room to roam, dig, and thermoregulate comfortably. Bigger is almost always better as long as heat and UVB can still reach every basking area.
For babies and juveniles, stick to safe, non loose options such as reptile carpet, paper towels, or tile. Loose substrates like sand carry a real risk of impaction while a young dragon is still learning to aim its strikes at feeders. Once a dragon is fully grown and a confident, accurate eater, many keepers move to a bioactive soil blend, which looks natural and holds humidity better, as long as feeding is still monitored closely.
Every enclosure needs a sturdy basking branch or rock, a hide on the warm side and another on the cool side so your dragon never has to choose between shelter and temperature, and a secure screen top to keep both UVB airflow and an escape artist contained. Flat basking stone or tile under the heat lamp holds warmth well and is easy to clean.
Heat and UVB
Bearded dragons are cold blooded and rely entirely on their environment to regulate body temperature and process the calcium in their diet. Getting the gradient and UVB right is not optional, it is core to their health.
Aim for 95 to 105F for adults and closer to 100 to 110F for babies and juveniles, who process heat and food faster. Measure at the exact spot your dragon basks with a digital probe thermometer rather than the stick on strips, which are often inaccurate.
The far end of the enclosure should sit between 75 and 85F during the day, giving your dragon somewhere to retreat and cool off. This gradient is what allows natural thermoregulation throughout the day.
A full length T5 High Output UVB tube spanning most of the enclosure is the current standard, replaced every 6 to 12 months even if it still lights up, since UVB output fades well before the bulb burns out. Position it inside the screen top with no glass or plastic in the way, since both block UVB almost entirely.
Nutrition
What and how often a bearded dragon eats changes a great deal with age. Younger dragons need more protein to fuel rapid growth, while adults thrive on a diet built mostly around vegetables.
Feed insects two to three times daily, offering roughly as many as they will eat in 10 minutes. Mix in finely chopped greens daily so they learn to graze early, even if little is eaten at first.
Offer insects once or twice a day alongside a growing portion of chopped vegetables, working toward a roughly even balance of protein and greens by the end of this stage.
Vegetables should make up the majority of daily meals, with insects offered two to three times a week rather than daily. Watch body condition and adjust portions to avoid excess weight gain.
New Owners, Read This
Bearded dragons are one of the calmest and most tolerant reptiles you can bring home, and most genuinely seem to enjoy the warmth and attention of gentle handling once they settle in. Give a new dragon a few quiet days to adjust before the first handling session, and always scoop from below rather than reaching down from above, which can feel like a predator approaching.
Keep early sessions short and low pressure, and watch for signs your dragon wants space, such as a darkened beard, puffing up, or hissing. These are communication, not aggression, and simply mean it is time to set them back down. With patience, most bearded dragons grow into confident, easygoing companions who will happily ride around on a shoulder or bask in your lap.
Know The Warning Signs
Most health problems in bearded dragons trace back to husbandry, and most are preventable with the setup described above. Here is what to watch for and when a vet visit is worth it.
Caused by insufficient UVB exposure or calcium intake over time. Watch for a soft or swollen jaw, tremors, lethargy, or difficulty walking. This is serious and progressive, so see a reptile vet promptly if you notice any of these signs, and review your UVB bulb age and calcium dusting routine right away.
Usually linked to loose substrate or feeders that are too large. Signs include a lack of bowel movement, lethargy, or avoiding the basking spot. Correct substrate and feeder sizing prevent most cases. If you suspect impaction, a warm bath can sometimes help, but see a vet if it does not resolve within a day or two.
More common in dragons with an unknown history, though any dragon can pick up parasites over time. Look for weight loss despite normal eating, poor appetite, or abnormal stool. A fecal exam at your vet is the only reliable way to confirm and treat this, so do not guess at medication on your own.
Often the result of temperatures running too low or an enclosure that stays too damp. Watch for open mouth breathing, wheezing, mucus around the nose or mouth, and low energy. Recheck your temperature gradient immediately and get your dragon to a vet, since this generally requires prescribed antibiotics to clear up.
Every dragon we raise grows up on exactly the setup and diet described in this guide. Browse who is currently available, or reach out if you still have questions.